Dhaulagiri sunrise from the Kali Gandaki

Dhaulagiri rises about 5,500 m above the floor of the Kali Gandaki here, one of the greatest vertical rises anywhere on earth. From Tukuche you look straight up at its eastern flank, with the Dhaulagiri icefall pouring down between the peaks and Tukuche Peak (6,920 m) to the north. In the half-light before dawn the snow is grey and blue; the first sun turns the summit pink, then gold. It is a sight few trekkers stay for.

We leave the lodge about 30 minutes before sunrise with a torch and walk down to the gravel bars of the river, a few minutes away. In October and November the sky is usually clear; in spring there can be haze. It is cold at dawn at any time of year, often below freezing, so bring a down jacket, hat and gloves, and a flask of tea from the lodge.

After sunrise we walk back for breakfast as the light fills the valley. Photographers should bring a telephoto lens for the summit and a wide lens for the valley. By 10 am cloud often builds on the mountain and the wind begins, so the morning is the only reliable window. This pairs well with the village walk and distillery visit later in the day. In winter, the light comes later and the cold is sharper, but the air is often clearest.