Ancestor rites at the Kagbeni confluence

Hindus believe that a confluence of rivers is a place of special merit, and Kagbeni's confluence, on the way to Muktinath, is one of the most important in Nepal for rites for the dead. Shraddha or pinda daan involves offering balls of rice, sesame and other items to the ancestors, with mantras recited by a priest. Many families from India and Nepal make the journey for this alone, often in the autumn fortnight of Pitri Paksha.

We arrange a priest and the materials in advance through contacts in Kagbeni and Jomsom, since few priests live here year-round. The rite is performed on the gravel by the water, usually in the morning. It takes about an hour, depending on how many ancestors are remembered. Wear clean, modest clothes; men are often asked to remove shirts for parts of the ritual, so bring a shawl. Your guide will help translate if needed.

Non-Hindu visitors are welcome to watch from a respectful distance but should not photograph families during the ritual without permission. In autumn and spring the river is low and the gravel bed is easy to walk; in the monsoon the water rises fast and rituals move higher up the bank. Many families then continue to Muktinath the same day by jeep. Allow a quiet hour afterwards before moving on. It is a moving morning.