Nature · Jomsom
Morning walk to Thini village and Dhumba Lake
An easy loop from Jomsom across the river to Thini, one of the old Thakali villages, and on to the small sacred lake of Dhumba below Nilgiri. A good acclimatisation walk on your first morning, finished before the afternoon wind.
We leave the hotel after breakfast, around 7.30, cross the Kali Gandaki by the footbridge to old Jomsom and climb gently east to Thini. It is about 45 minutes of walking. Thini is one of the three Teen Gaunle villages, with stone houses packed close, a small gompa and fields of barley and buckwheat irrigated by channels from the hillside. Women spin wool on doorsteps in the morning sun, and in autumn the roofs are covered with drying buckwheat and apples.
From Thini a dirt track and footpath lead on to Dhumba Lake, a small green tarn held sacred by local Buddhists, with prayer flags strung around it. On a still morning it reflects the snow of Nilgiri. A small gompa stands on the slope above. The altitude stays around 2,800 m, so this is a gentle way to let your body adjust before Muktinath or Upper Mustang. There is no teahouse at the lake itself, so carry water and a snack from Jomsom.
We return by a slightly different path, reaching Jomsom before the wind rises, usually by 11. If you have energy left, the Mustang Eco Museum is near the airport and makes a good hour after lunch. Wear sun protection; even on a cold morning the sun is strong at this height. The whole loop is about 6–8 km, and you can shorten it by returning from Thini the way you came. In winter the path can be icy in shaded sections near the lake, so wear shoes with a good grip and start a little later, after the sun is up.
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Questions
How hard is the walk from Jomsom to Dhumba Lake?
It is easy. The loop is roughly 6–8 km with a gain of about 150 m, mostly on dirt track and village paths. Anyone who can walk for three hours at an easy pace can do it. The only challenge is the altitude of about 2,800 m, so walk slowly, drink water and turn back early if you get a headache.
Can we swim in Dhumba Lake?
No. Dhumba is treated as a sacred lake by local Buddhists, and swimming, washing or throwing things in is not appropriate. The water is also very cold for most of the year. Walk around it clockwise, as people do around a stupa, and keep to the paths so you do not damage the banks.
Do we need a guide for the Thini and Dhumba walk?
The paths are short and close to town, but since April 2023 Nepal requires foreign trekkers in conservation areas such as ACAP to walk with a licensed guide; check current status before you travel. Our guests are with their guide anyway, who can explain the village and gompa as you go.
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