Spiritual · Chhoser
The cliff gompas of Garphu and Nyiphu
Visit two small monasteries built against the cliffs of the Chhoser valley, Garphu and Nyiphu, partly using the caves as shrine rooms. Old statues, faded paintings and quiet caretakers, in one of the most unusual monastic settings in Upper Mustang.
Garphu and Nyiphu stand in the Chhoser valley not far from the Jhong cave, each built against the base of the cliff so that the rock forms part of the building. Above them, the cliff is pitted with caves, some once used as meditation cells by monks and hermits. The setting shows the link between the caves and the religious life of Lo, which continued for centuries after people stopped living in them.
At each gompa your guide finds the caretaker, who opens the shrine rooms. Inside are statues, butter lamps, painted walls and texts, darkened by age and smoke. Some of the rooms run back into the rock, cool and dim. Remove your shoes, walk clockwise and ask before taking photographs; some caretakers allow pictures without flash, others prefer none at all. Look for old offerings left in rock niches, and the soot marks of centuries of butter lamps on the ceilings.
The two gompas are small and quiet, and it is easy to spend time simply sitting in the courtyard and watching the light on the cliffs. Leave a donation at each, NPR 300–500 per person is appropriate, to support the caretakers. Combine the gompas with the Jhong cave in a single morning, then ride back to Lo Manthang for a late lunch before the afternoon wind. It is a peaceful end to the morning.
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Questions
What are Garphu and Nyiphu?
Garphu and Nyiphu are two small monasteries in the Chhoser valley north-east of Lo Manthang, built against the cliffs and partly using caves as rooms. They are looked after by caretakers and still used for worship. Visiting them with the nearby Jhong cave shows how caves and monasteries were linked in Lo.
Can I visit Garphu and Nyiphu without a guide?
In practice, no. You need a licensed guide for Upper Mustang under the restricted area permit rules, and the guide's local contacts are needed to find the caretakers, who hold the keys. Without them, you are likely to find the gompas locked. Check current status before you travel.
How long does it take to visit the Chhoser monasteries?
Allow about two hours for both gompas, including the short walks between them and time with the caretakers. Combined with the Jhong cave and travel from Lo Manthang by horse or jeep, a visit to Chhoser takes a long half day or a relaxed full day. Start early to avoid the afternoon wind.
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