Spiritual · Nuwakot
Bhairavi and Taleju temple circuit
A morning loop to the temples that guard the fort: the Bhairavi pagoda where offerings start at dawn, the old Narayan temple near the guard house, and the hill-top Taleju Bhawani temple of the Malla kings.
Nuwakot's temples are older than the Shah palace. The Narayan and Vishnu temples near the guard house date to the Malla period, and an inscription of Ripu Malla from 1498 was found here. The five-tiered Taleju Bhawani temple, on a small hill about 150 m from the palace, honours the family goddess of the Malla kings and is thought to date from around the 1400s. Worship there still continues at festivals.
The Bhairavi temple, 200 m south of the palace, is the living heart of Nuwakot. At dawn people come with rice, flowers and vermilion, ring the bells and walk around the shrine clockwise. The temple faces west, and figures holding sindur stand on either side of the main stairs. It was badly damaged in 2015 and restored by August 2020.
We walk the loop slowly with a local guide who can explain the rituals and who the dhami is. There is also a stupa on the north side of the palace, restored by Prithvi Narayan Shah according to its inscription, which reminds you that Buddhist and Hindu worship have always lived side by side on this ridge.
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Questions
Can non-Hindus enter the Bhairavi temple in Nuwakot?
Visitors can walk around the temple courtyard and watch worship, but the inner sanctum is for worshippers and priests. Follow your guide, do not touch offerings or images, remove shoes where asked and avoid leather near the shrine. Photography of the exterior is generally fine; ask before photographing people at prayer.
What is the best time to visit the Nuwakot temples?
Early morning, from about 6 to 8 am, is when local people come to worship and the light is soft. Tuesdays and Saturdays are busier days for goddess temples in Nepal. In spring, during Sindure Jatra, the temples are the centre of processions and much more crowded, which is worth planning for.
How difficult is the walk to the Taleju temple?
It is a short climb of about 10 minutes on stone steps from the palace area, fine for most people who can manage stairs. There are no handrails on some sections and steps can be uneven, so take care after rain. The view from the top over the Trishuli and Tadi valleys is worth the effort.
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