Walk the chain of sacred lakes

The Gosaikunda complex includes many lakes; tradition speaks of 108 in the area. The best known lie along the trail: Saraswati Kunda below Gosaikunda, Bhairab Kunda with its rocky shore, and Gosaikunda itself, the largest. Each is linked to a deity, and pilgrims make offerings at each. Your guide can tell you the stories linked to each lake and point out where pilgrims bathe at the festival. Walk slowly; at 4,380 m even easy paths are tiring.

On a rest morning at the lake, walk the shore path around Gosaikunda, past the Shiva shrine, tridents and bells left by pilgrims, then climb a little to look down on the chain of lakes. In autumn the water is deep blue under bright skies; in spring there can still be ice on the surface. Look for the bells, tridents and coins pilgrims leave at the Shiva shrine, and the prayer flags strung by Buddhist visitors. Photography of the shrine from outside is generally fine; ask before photographing people at prayer.

Bird life includes snowcocks and choughs, and the wetland supports alpine plants that flower briefly in summer. Stay on paths, carry out all rubbish and do not wash or swim in the lakes. The lakes are a protected wetland as well as sacred waters, important for birds and alpine plants. Respect both: no washing, no soap, no litter, and no stones moved from cairns or shrines. Take your rubbish back down to Dhunche, where it can be disposed of properly.