Day hike to Ponkar Lake

From the Bhimthang lodges, a path follows the edge of the moraine north-east, climbing gently with views back over the meadow. After 1.5 to 2 hours you reach Ponkar Lake, a grey-green glacial lake surrounded by ice, scree and steep rock walls. The path is not marked in places, and boulders on the moraine can shift underfoot, so walk with your guide and take your time. The views back toward the Larkya La side of the valley show you the route you came down the day before.

The lake is quiet, with few trekkers: most cross the pass and continue down the next day. You may see blue sheep on the slopes, and the light on the surrounding peaks changes quickly. Bring a warm layer; the wind off the ice is cold. Sit on the moraine above the shore rather than going down to the water, where the ground is loose. Bring a flask of tea and snacks from the lodge; there is nothing to buy on the way. Clouds often roll in by midday, so leave early.

Return the same way for lunch at Bhimthang. A second night here gives your legs time to recover after Larkya La and turns the end of the circuit from a march into a pause. Many trekkers rush the last days of the circuit to reach the road. If your schedule allows, slowing down here pays off: you rest after the pass, see the valley at its quietest and walk down to Dharapani the next day with fresh legs and fewer blisters.