Heritage · Kirtipur
Kirtipur's siege story told on its ridge
A walk through Kirtipur's old town with the story of the siege of 1757 to 1767: Bagh Bhairab's temple with its weapons, the hilltop Uma Maheshwar, the Chilancho stupa and the lanes where the town held out. Views across the valley along the way.
We start at the foot of the old town and climb the steps into its lanes, stopping where the ridge gives a clear view north over Kathmandu. Here we tell the story of the three Gorkha assaults: the first in 1757 that cost Kalu Pande his life, the second in 1764 when Surpratap Shah lost an eye, and the long siege of 1767 that ended in surrender.
At the centre of town, the Bagh Bhairab temple honours Bhairav in tiger form. Swords linked to the Battle of Kirtipur are displayed on the temple, a reminder of 1767. Worshippers come with flowers, rice and vermilion through the morning. We then climb to Uma Maheshwar at the top of the ridge, guarded by stone elephants.
We walk along the ridge to the southern hump and the Chilancho stupa, ringed by smaller chaityas, where Buddhist neighbours walk their kora. On the way down we pass old water spouts and houses rebuilt after 2015. We end at Newa Lahana for lunch or tea and a plate of snacks.
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Questions
Why is Kirtipur famous?
Kirtipur is known for its long resistance to Prithvi Narayan Shah of Gorkha, who failed to take it in 1757 and 1764 and captured it only in 1767 after a siege. It is also home to Tribhuvan University and keeps an old Newar town with temples, a stupa and valley views.
Is there an entry fee for Kirtipur?
There is no general entry fee for Kirtipur's old town at the time of writing, unlike Bhaktapur or Patan. Some temples may accept donations. Fees in the valley change, so check current status before you travel. Respect temple rules, and ask before entering private courtyards.
How long does it take to see Kirtipur?
Two to three hours covers the old town, the main temples, the Chilancho stupa and the ridge views. Add an hour for lunch at Newa Lahana, and two more if you combine it with Chobhar gorge and Taudaha lake on foot.
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