Food · Bungamati
Khokana's mustard oil and Karya Binayak walk
Walk from Bungamati via the Ganesh temple of Karya Binayak to Khokana, a Newar village known for mustard oil. See seeds drying in the squares, visit a traditional oil press if one is working, and taste local snacks fried in fresh oil.
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From Bungamati, a path leads up through woods to Karya Binayak, a small Ganesh temple on a wooded hill. Locals visit to ask for success in new work, and the view over the fields towards the southern hills is lovely in the morning. We stop for a few minutes, then walk down the other side to Khokana.
Khokana is a compact Newar village built round a central street and squares. In season, mustard seed, rice and other grains are spread to dry on the paving, and you may see the old presses at work. Khokana's oil, with its sharp, pungent taste, has long been sold in Kathmandu's markets and is prized for pickles and cooking.
We visit a press where it is working, see how seeds are crushed and oil drawn off, and smell the strong fumes. Then we stop at a small shop for bara, fried snacks or aloo achar made with local oil. Khokana is also home to the temple of the goddess Rudrayani, which we visit on the way out.
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Questions
What is Khokana famous for?
Khokana is a Newar village south of Patan known for its mustard oil, pressed in traditional mills and sold in Kathmandu's markets. It also keeps a well-preserved old core with drying squares and the temple of the goddess Rudrayani. It pairs well with Bungamati, a short walk away.
How far is Khokana from Bungamati?
About 1.5 km, a 20 to 30 minute walk via the Karya Binayak temple on a wooded hill. The path is easy, with gentle climbs. Taxis can also drive between the villages by road, but walking is the best way to see the countryside.
Can I buy mustard oil in Khokana?
Yes. Local presses and shops sell bottles of mustard oil. It is strong and pungent, used in Nepali pickles, cooking and massage. Check the bottle is well sealed for travel, and note airline liquid rules for hand luggage.
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