Climb to Chiwong Gompa above Phaplu

Chiwong Gompa sits on a rocky spur above the valley, its prayer hall and monks' quarters built right to the cliff edge. It was founded around 1919–1923 by a lama who had come from Tibet, and it belongs to the Nyingma tradition shared by Tengboche, Thame and Thubten Chholing. The walk up from Phaplu takes 1.5–2 hours through pine forest, past chortens and small farms.

In the courtyard, the stone floor where the Mani Rimdu dances are held looks out over the whole Solu basin: Phaplu's airstrip, Salleri's rooftops and, on clear days, Numbur's snows to the north. Inside, the prayer hall has old murals and statues of Guru Rinpoche and protector deities. Visitors are welcome; ask the caretaker to open the hall if it is closed.

If you can, time your visit for Chiwong's Mani Rimdu, a 19-day ritual whose public days bring blessings, masked dances and a fire ceremony. It is smaller and more local than Tengboche's, with Sherpa families from across Solu in their best clothes. Dates follow the lunar calendar; check current status before you travel. Leave a donation and dress modestly.