Spiritual · Junbesi
Morning prayers at Thubten Chholing
Walk an hour above Junbesi to Thubten Chholing, the monastic community Trulshik Rinpoche founded in 1968 after fleeing Tibet. Join the morning chanting, walk the lines of prayer wheels and see one of the largest Buddhist nunneries in the Himalaya.
The trail climbs north from Junbesi through pine and along the valley side for about an hour. Then the hillside opens into a settlement of its own: a large main temple, a ring of prayer wheels, and dozens of small whitewashed houses where monks and nuns live, many of them built by the residents themselves. Prayer flags run between the roofs.
Thubten Chholing was founded in 1968 by Trulshik Rinpoche, a lama of Rongbuk Monastery on the north side of Everest who crossed into Nepal in 1959. It belongs to the Nyingma school and is especially known for its large community of nuns, among the largest in the Himalaya. Its practice continues the ritual traditions of Rongbuk.
Arrive for the morning puja and sit quietly at the back of the hall as the chanting rises. Afterwards walk the kora around the temple, turning the wheels clockwise. Remove shoes and hats inside, dress modestly, ask before photographing anyone, and leave a donation. Many visitors find this the most peaceful morning of their time in Nepal.
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Questions
Who founded Thubten Chholing?
Trulshik Rinpoche, a senior Nyingma lama from Rongbuk Monastery in Tibet, who fled to Nepal in 1959 with many monks and nuns. He built Thubten Chholing near Junbesi in 1968. He was one of the teachers of the 14th Dalai Lama and became head of the Nyingma school in 2010. He died in 2011.
How far is Thubten Chholing from Junbesi?
About an hour's walk north of Junbesi, climbing gently through forest. Allow about three hours for the round trip, including time for prayers and the kora. The monastery stands at roughly 3,000 m, so the walk is easy, with no real altitude concerns for most visitors.
Can visitors attend prayers at Thubten Chholing?
Usually yes, if quiet and respectful. Come in the early morning, remove shoes and hats, sit at the back and avoid flash or photography during rituals. Dress modestly with shoulders and knees covered. Leave a donation. Ask your guide to confirm visiting times on the day.
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