Jeep safari through Parsa's sal forest

Drives start at first light from the headquarters area. Tracks lead into tall sal forest, where the canopy closes overhead, and along dry stream beds that cut into the Churia hills. Sandy riverbeds are the best places to read tracks: tigers, leopards, elephants and bears all use them as paths. The forest is dense, so sightings are often brief.

Expect spotted deer, barking deer, wild boar and langurs; with patience, gaur, sambar and sloth bear. Tigers are present in good numbers but very hard to see in dense forest, and a fresh set of pugmarks is a more realistic hope. Wild elephants pass through but are unpredictable; your guide keeps a safe distance. Expect long quiet stretches between sightings.

Because the park is quiet, you can stop and listen for alarm calls, which often give away a predator. Bring water, snacks, binoculars and a scarf for dust. Arrange your jeep and guide in advance through a specialist operator. A full morning lasts four to six hours. Dust is heavy in the dry season, so protect cameras and wear a scarf.