Evening at the Janaki Mandir

The Janaki Mandir rises from a large courtyard in the centre of Janakpur, all white stone and marble, with domes, small towers and lattice windows. It covers about 1,480 square metres and holds 60 rooms. In the inner sanctum a flower-covered image of Sita stands with Rama and his brothers. Inside, walls carry Mithila paintings, and the courtyard holds thousands of people on festival days.

Come in the late afternoon and stay until dark. As the light fades, priests light lamps, bells ring and devotional songs begin. Families arrive in their best clothes, newlyweds come to seek blessings and pilgrims from India sit in groups on the marble floor. The atmosphere is warm, busy and moving. Musicians play harmonium and cymbals, and devotees sing bhajans in Maithili and Hindi.

Afterwards, walk to the Vivah Mandap next door, a pavilion with figures depicting the wedding of Rama and Sita. Remove shoes at the gate, cover shoulders and knees, keep phones on silent and ask before photographing people at prayer. Rickshaws wait outside the gate for the ride back to your hotel. Allow about two hours and carry a small torch for the lanes.