Paragliding from Sarangkot: what to know

Paragliders need rising air, and Pokhara has it almost every dry day. The sun heats the south-facing slopes of Sarangkot and the hills around the valley, warm air rises in columns called thermals, and pilots circle up inside them, sometimes climbing far above the launch. Below lies Phewa Lake, a big, flat, safe landing area. Behind the launch, on clear days, stand Machhapuchhre, the Annapurnas and Dhaulagiri. Few places in the world put a beginner's tandem flight in front of a range of 7,000 and 8,000 m peaks.

Commercial tandem flying has grown into one of Pokhara's main industries, with dozens of licensed companies and many Nepali pilots trained here. On a busy day in November the sky above the lake is full of coloured wings, and the landing field by the lakeshore is a show in itself.

You will not be alone up there. Large birds of prey use the same thermals, and pilots often share a climb with Himalayan griffon vultures, black kites or, in winter, migrating steppe eagles. Watching a vulture with a wingspan close to three metres turn a slow circle a few metres from your wing is, for many passengers, the moment they remember most.

You need no experience. The pilot flies the glider; you are clipped into a harness in front of them and enjoy the ride. The whole outing takes two to three hours including transport. A typical flight goes like this.

What you see depends on the day. In the first minutes after launch, Sarangkot's houses and terraces fall away beneath your feet and Phewa Lake opens below, with the island temple of Tal Barahi and the boats around it. As the pilot climbs, the Peace Pagoda appears on its ridge across the water, the city spreads to the east, and on a clear morning the whole line of peaks from Dhaulagiri to Annapurna II rises behind you. Most passengers find it calmer than they expected: once the wing is flying there is little sense of speed, only wind and quiet.

• The operator collects you from your Lakeside hotel and drives you up to the take-off on Sarangkot, about 30 to 40 minutes.
• At the launch your pilot fits your harness and helmet and gives a short briefing: when to run, how to sit, what to do on landing.
• When the wind is right, you and the pilot run a few steps down the slope and the wing lifts you off.
• For 20 to 30 minutes you circle in thermals over the hills and lake, with the mountains behind you. Ask the pilot if you want a gentle or a more lively ride.
• The pilot lands on the field by Phewa Lake, often on your feet, sometimes sliding on your seat.
• Many operators offer photos and video from a camera on a pole for an extra fee.

Prices below are per person at the time of writing, for guidance only. They change with the season and the operator, and peak months cost more.

The flying season runs from about October to May. October to December gives the clearest mountain views and steady conditions. March to May gives the strongest thermals and the longest flights, with more haze. January and February are clear but cooler, and some days have weaker lift. In the monsoon, June to September, many flights are cancelled by rain and cloud, though operators fly when gaps allow.

Time of day matters too. Morning flights have the best chance of a clear mountain backdrop, while thermals strengthen from late morning, making midday flights bumpier but longer for those who want to climb. Afternoon wind and cloud often stop flying by about four. If your goal is the view, ask for the first flight of the morning.

Because flights depend on the weather, keep your plans flexible. Book for your first full day in Pokhara if you can, so that a cancelled flight can move to the next morning. Reputable operators refund or rebook if they cannot fly. If clouds cover the mountains, you can still fly; the lake and hills are beautiful, but you may want to wait for a clearer day if the view matters most to you.

Tandem paragliding in Pokhara has a good safety record overall, but it is an adventure sport and accidents have happened. Choose carefully and do not pick the cheapest offer on the street without asking questions.

Weight and age limits vary. Many operators accept passengers from about 20 or 25 kg up to about 100 to 110 kg, and children from around eight to ten years with a parent's consent. Very light passengers may not have enough weight to launch safely, and heavier passengers may need a special wing. People with heart conditions, recent surgery, back problems or pregnancy should not fly. Ask the operator before booking.

• Book with an established company registered with the authorities, not through an unknown agent.
• Ask about the pilot's licence and experience; good pilots have flown thousands of tandems.
• Check that equipment looks well kept and that a reserve parachute is carried.
• Confirm that your travel insurance covers paragliding.
• Trust the pilot's decision if they say the conditions are not safe; take a refund or reschedule.

The launch at Sarangkot is cooler than Lakeside, and it is colder still in the air. Dress in layers and keep your hands free.

Tip your pilot if you enjoyed the flight; it is customary but not required. Pilots fly several tandems a day in season, and a few hundred rupees or the price of a meal is appreciated. Your photos and video are usually transferred to your phone at the landing field or sent by message the same day.

• Closed shoes with grip, such as trainers or light hiking boots; no sandals.
• Long trousers and a windproof jacket, plus a fleece from November to February.
• Sunglasses with a strap, and sunscreen.
• Leave loose items, bags and hats on the ground; phones should be strapped or zipped away.
• Eat a light breakfast; an empty or very full stomach both make motion sickness more likely.
• If you get motion sick, tell the pilot and ask for a gentle flight.

Some visitors catch the bug. Pokhara schools run paragliding courses for beginners, starting with ground handling on a training slope and moving to supervised solo flights over several days. International pilots come from November to February to fly cross-country along the ridges toward the Annapurnas, and the local flying community is friendly and welcoming.

If you prefer to keep your feet nearer the ground, Sarangkot itself is worth the trip for sunrise, and you can watch the launches from the ridge with a cup of tea. Pairing a dawn visit with a later flight makes a full day: first the mountains in the light, then the same mountains from the air.