Pokhara & the Annapurnas · Gorkha
Dashain and Phulpati in Gorkha
दशैं
Dashain, Nepal's longest and biggest festival, honours the goddess Durga over fifteen days. Gorkha has a special place in it: the Phulpati, a sacred bundle of leaves, flowers and plants for the goddess, is sent from Gorkha to Kathmandu, a tradition of the Shah kings, while Gorkha's Kalika temple fills with pilgrims.
Dashain celebrates the victory of the goddess Durga over the buffalo demon Mahishasura, and with it the victory of good over evil. It begins on Ghatasthapana, when barley seeds are sown in a sacred vessel to sprout as jamara, and builds over nine nights of worship of the goddess. On the tenth day, Vijaya Dashami, elders place red tika and jamara on the foreheads of younger family members and bless them.
The seventh day is Phulpati, meaning flowers and leaves. A bundle of sacred plants, among them banana stalk, sugarcane, pomegranate, rice and other auspicious leaves, is prepared for the goddess. By a tradition dating from the Shah kings, the Phulpati is carried from Gorkha, the dynasty's ancestral seat, to Hanuman Dhoka in Kathmandu by bearers who walk for several days, and is received there with ceremony, music and a military salute.
In Gorkha itself, Dashain brings pilgrims to the Kalika temple and Gorakhnath cave at the palace, especially on the eighth and ninth days, when animal sacrifices are made to the goddess. Bamboo swings (ping) go up in villages, children fly kites, and families gather for feasts of goat meat and sel roti. Transport is crowded as Nepalis travel home.
Tips
- Book buses, flights and hotels well ahead; Dashain is the busiest travel period in Nepal.
- Animal sacrifices take place at temples, especially on the eighth and ninth days; decide in advance whether you want to see them.
- Many offices, shops and some restaurants close around the main days; plan cash and meals accordingly.
- Dates follow the lunar calendar and change every year, so check current status before you travel.
Questions
When is Dashain celebrated?
Dashain falls in the Nepali months of Ashwin and Kartik, usually between late September and late October, following the lunar calendar. It lasts fifteen days, from Ghatasthapana to the full moon, with the main days being Phulpati (seventh), Maha Ashtami (eighth), Maha Navami (ninth) and Vijaya Dashami (tenth). Check exact dates for your year before you travel.
What is Phulpati in Dashain?
Phulpati, meaning flowers and leaves, is the seventh day of Dashain, when a sacred bundle of auspicious plants is brought for worship of the goddess Durga. By a tradition of the Shah kings, the Phulpati is carried from Gorkha to Hanuman Dhoka in Kathmandu over several days, and is received with ceremony and a military salute.
Can tourists visit Gorkha during Dashain?
Yes. Gorkha's palace temples are busy with pilgrims, especially on the eighth and ninth days, and the town is festive. Expect crowds, full transport and some closed shops. Animal sacrifices take place at the Kalika temple, which some visitors prefer to avoid. Dress modestly, ask before photographing worship and book hotels early.
What is the Dashain tika?
On Vijaya Dashami, the tenth day of Dashain, elders place a tika of red vermilion mixed with rice and yoghurt on the foreheads of younger relatives, with jamara barley shoots behind the ear, and give blessings and money. Families visit relatives for several days afterwards to receive tika. Visitors may be offered tika by host families, which is an honour.