Kathmandu Valley · Bhaktapur
Bisket Jatra
बिस्केट जात्रा
Bhaktapur's New Year festival: the chariot of Bhairav is hauled through the town in a tug of war between upper and lower halves, a tall pole is raised and pulled down to mark the new year, and nearby Thimi throws clouds of vermilion. Loud, crowded and full of energy.
Bisket Jatra runs for about nine days around Nepali New Year in mid-April. It begins in Taumadhi, beside Nyatapola, where the huge three-roofed chariot of Bhairav is assembled. Men from the upper and lower halves of the town grab thick ropes at either end and pull in opposite directions; the winning side takes the chariot into its own quarter. A smaller chariot carries the goddess Bhadrakali.
Outside the town, at a field by the river, a tall wooden pole, the yosin or lingo, is raised with two long banners. On the evening before New Year, crowds pull it down, and its fall marks the start of the new year. The festival's name is often traced to a Newar phrase about killing snakes, recalled in the banners said to represent two serpents.
The day after New Year, neighbouring Thimi celebrates Sindure Jatra, with palanquins of gods spun through the streets and clouds of orange vermilion thrown by everyone. In nearby Bode, a volunteer has his tongue pierced with a needle and walks the village carrying a ring of lamps. Bisket is the best time to see Bhaktapur's people at full volume.
Tips
- Watch the chariot tug of war from a raised step or a rooftop cafe, not from the street; the chariot can lurch suddenly.
- Wear old clothes for Sindure Jatra in Thimi, and protect cameras and phones from vermilion powder.
- Book Bhaktapur rooms weeks ahead for New Year; the old town fills up.
Questions
When is Bisket Jatra?
Bisket Jatra takes place over about nine days around Nepali New Year, Baisakh 1, which usually falls on 13 or 14 April. The pole is pulled down on the evening before New Year, and Sindure Jatra in Thimi follows the next day. Check current status before you travel.
What happens at Bisket Jatra?
The chariot of Bhairav is hauled through Bhaktapur in a tug of war between the upper and lower halves of town, a tall pole is raised and pulled down to mark the new year, and the goddess Bhadrakali's chariot joins the processions. Nearby towns hold their own events, including Sindure Jatra in Thimi.
Is Bisket Jatra safe for tourists?
Generally yes, if you keep a safe distance from the chariots and ropes. The chariot tug of war is rough, and the chariot can tilt or swing suddenly, so watch from steps, rooftops or the edges of the square. Keep valuables minimal and avoid the densest crowds with children.
What is the legend of Bisket Jatra?
Local legend tells of a princess whose husbands each died on their wedding night. A brave prince stayed awake and saw two serpents emerge from her nostrils, and killed them. The festival's name is often explained as snake slaying, and the two banners on the pole are said to represent the snakes.